Farming Against the Odds: Brian Berglund's Journey of Adaptation and Innovation
There was already sweat building underneath the brim of Brian Berglund’s worn baseball cap at 8 A.M. Wyoming’s dry August heat shimmered off of Western Variety Farm’s fields and buildings. Brian was crouched over a row of lettuce, covering the crop with a shade net, which is a clever way of adapting cooler weather plants to the increasing western temperatures. More produce grew inside the adjacent greenhouse, and flowers bloomed along the path leading up to both. Two local highschool students slid out of their mother’s car, arriving to help Brian cut and package the flowers for sale.
In front of the dry rolling hills, his red pickup was parked with a Western Variety Farm sticker proudly placed on the rear windshield. “Eating the stuff that you grow. I think local food does taste better... it feels like the work is purposeful,” said Brian. With unfair market competition, increasing start up costs, and land access difficulties, many aspiring young farmers are discouraged from starting down that path. Brian Berglund, a first generation farmer, is proving that with some adaptations and creative thinking, that the farming dream is still obtainable for some.
While Brian always had a knack for farming, it wasn’t always a realized dream of his. “Ever since he was a little kid, he was always an old soul, always had his hands in the dirt, growing things,” explained his father, who periodically visits his son to help him on the farm. Brian grew up in Connecticut and would garden with his parents, tending to flowers with his mother and cultivating vegetables with his father, Brian's early experiences sparked a lifelong passion for agriculture. "I always loved doing it [farming], but it never seemed like there was a good opportunity to make it a career. After college, I traveled around for a long time and worked for other people that were doing it. I guess the interest in learning it at home sparked the career,” said Brian.
It wasn't until later in life, after pursuing a degree in business and embarking on a journey of self-discovery, that Brian found himself drawn back to the soil. From the verdant fields of Massachusetts to the rugged landscapes of California, Brian honed his skills through internships and hands-on experience, immersing himself in the intricacies of organic farming and sustainable practices. Each farm he worked on, each crop he tended, became a stepping stone on his path to becoming a farmer in his own right.
"At some point, you just have to do it. There's way too many variables to ever perfect anything. At some point, you just have to do it and then you're going to learn on the job."
Eventually, Brian landed in Sheridan, Wyoming. Tucked alongside the Bighorn Mountains, Sheridan has a community of people who support local agriculture through a year-round farmers market but also a farmers market store right on main street.
In an era where food origins are increasingly questioned, and the rippling impacts of industrialized agriculture continue to grow, these changes in smaller local communities can lead the way for others hoping to bring back sustainable and community focused food systems. "When people come, like friends or family come and work with you... you can see the farm through their eyes,” said Brian as he reflected on the highlights of running his own farm.
Sheridan is a vibrant community that has been working its way towards a more sustainable local food and agriculture landscape, which is part of the reason why Brian chose to put down roots and start his farm in the area. "Land is a huge challenge,” said Brian, “It's so difficult to find access to farmland that's not being developed." Rather than buying land outright, Brian has found it more economical to lease land. He started working with one landowner to transform their raw plot of land into a greenhouse with a garden bed and then found another plot to lease to expand his operation later on. His second land lease came two years into his operation from fellow producer Phill Gilmore. After serving his community as a producer for several decades Phil reached out to Brian to see if he was interested in taking over his plot and utilizing his greenhouse as he prepares to retire. Phill has been not just a resource for land access but also shares with Brian his wealth of knowledge and experience, frequently troubleshooting and advising Brian on his operation.
After he found a solution to combat limited and expensive land access, Brian began to seek out funding opportunities for his farm. "There's so much money available for first-time farming, you just have to seek it out. And it's a lot of paperwork, but it's worth it,” said Brian. His 50 by 16 foot greenhouse tunnel was paid for through a grant from the National Resource Conservation Service (NRCS).
On a third section of land that Brian utilizes with the help of a friend, he raises grass fed meat chickens. Selling both the chickens and fresh-cut flowers have helped diversify his inventory. He said even the flowers they didn’t cut, brought insects and pollinators into the garden and brought beauty to the farm while the ones they did sell helped add a financial cushion to the operation.
His business background has not gone to waste while he builds his farm. "Knowing how to properly market things... if the stuff isn't laid out properly, it's so much more difficult to sell it... I think the marketing and back end side of... knowing what you should charge for something would have been really challenging to kind of come up with if I hadn't had the background to learn,” said Brian. Choosing to lease land over buying it, writing grants, marketing, and diversifying his products have all contributed to Brian being able to make a living from farming.
While Brian is currently working towards expanding what his farm grows and offers his community, he is also thinking ahead to the future and other revenue streams. "I would like to have a farm that generates income from different sources... not just solely reliant on a good season... like a concert venue, or wedding venue... something else that pulls money in,” said Brian. Looking forward, Brian hopes to continue to build his business and find innovative solutions to make the farming dream a reality once more for young and beginning farmers.